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“The first condition of understanding a foreign country is to smell it.” – Rudyard Kipling-
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Monthly Archives: September 2018
Trapped in a Marble Birdcage, Turkmenistan, September 2018
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I have spent the last week travelling in Turkmenistan, a Central Asian country wedged between Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan to the north and Iran and Afghanistan to the south. It’s landscape is made up in large part by the sandy Karakum …
The Legends of Samarkand and Bukhara, Uzbekistan September 2018
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The cities of Samarkand and Bukhara have existed for over 2500 years. I could try to rattle off some of the civilizations and empires that have ruled these areas from the Persians and Greeks (under Alexander the Great) to …
The Living Silk Road, Uzbekistan September 2018
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As I travel through Uzbekistan now the mountains have all but disappeared and a dusty haze settles on the landscape. But the road is paved with iconic Silk Road towns – ahead of me lie the almost mythical places of …
On The Trail of Alexander the Great, Tajikistan, September 2018
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My final jaunt through Tajikistan has taken me to the capital Dushanbe and then on to the north. Dushanbe translates as Monday, and when this was previously a sleepy town the weekly market was held on a Monday hence the …
The Wakhan Valley – A Stone’s Throw from Afghanistan, Tajikistan, August 2018
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My latest journey has taken a detour from the Pamir Highway into the Wakhan Valley region. Although I won’t bore you with too much geopolitical history, in the 1800s as the Soviet empire was pressing south and the British were …